Joshua turned 1 on August 3. Since we were leaving that day for
Alaska, we celebrated the weekend before. I made him a monkey cake with cream cheese frosting (he loves cream cheese) and we did the almost-obligatory let-the-kid-eat-with-his-whole-face routine. We got him all set up in just his diaper on a tablecloth on the floor and gave him his cake. He took a few tastes and then just wanted to play with Ben and
Kendall and his balloons. And that was it. The next morning, his brilliant aunt Suzie thought maybe he wasn’t interested in his cake because he wanted chocolate instead. So I cut him a slice of the chocolate cake I had made for everyone else and gave it to him for breakfast. He poked it once or twice, picked it up, and shoved the whole thing in his mouth. Love that kid!
So off we went to
Alaska for two weeks. We got in to
Anchorage just before midnight and met my mom at the airport. We got our rental car and drove all night to a tiny little place called McCarthy that happens to sit in the largest (and one of the coolest) national parks in
America called Wrangell-St. Elias. We spent the day exploring McCarthy, which didn’t take long as it’s only one block long, and another tiny town called Kennecott. Kennecott is what’s left of a huge copper mining operation that was abandoned a few decades ago. And what’s left is pretty cool – it’s a bunch of decrepit, beautiful red buildings perched on a mountainside overlooking an ENORMOUS glacial moraine.
The next morning we hopped on a little plane with a guide and our gear and headed into the backcountry. We set up our base camp in the rain, strapped Josh into his backpack, and headed out for our first adventure. Betsy, our awesome guide, didn’t hold anything back just because we were hiking with an infant. That first day we headed up a lateral moraine (the miles and miles of gravel pushed up by the sides of a glacier) until we couldn’t go anymore and had lunch on a huge gravel mountain overlooking three glaciers and countless peaks. The biggest peak around,
Mt. Blackburn (16,390 ft) didn’t make much of an appearance that day because of the rain, though.
We finished dinner and got settled into our tents before the rain really got going, and it poured all night. When we got up the next morning, though, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. It was an unbelievably perfect day. Betsy took us gallivanting through the bush and up mountains to find
Iceberg Lake.
Iceberg Lake is unique among lakes found near glaciers in that it fills every year and then completely drains in early August. When it’s full, it’s dammed by the glacier and is big enough you could fit every person in the
United States in it at once. When it drains, as it did a week before we arrived, the flow is so big it makes the whole glacier field undulate as it rushes underneath it. People who happen to be standing on the glacier when those thousands and thousands of gallons are passing below can see on GPS units that they move up and down by a few feet as the waves of water move below, which is pretty impressive since the glacier is hundreds of feet thick. When the lake is drained, however, it leaves acres of house-sized (Well, the tiny ones are house-sized. Most are much, much larger), powder-blue icebergs lying on an enormous sand bar. The hike up to the overlook above
Iceberg Lake was a tense and intense scramble up grassy hillsides and rocky outcroppings. Mario didn’t miss a beat, though, and Josh had a ball. Betsy recommended we not try taking Josh down into the iceberg valley itself as it was even worse than the way up, so me and J had a date on top of a mountain while Mom and Mario went down to check out the bergs.
Our third and last day in the backcountry was spent out on the glacier itself. We spent all morning trying to get to the glacier, which isn’t as easy as it sounds. About 90% of the glacier’s shoulders are lined with fields of hip-deep mud, lakes, rivers, and ice walls tens of feet high. After multiple failed attempts to get onto the glacier, I got lucky and found a place that worked. We strapped on crampons and went for a little stroll out on the ice. It was an incredibly memorable day. We even found a moulin, which is French for “mill” and refers to a place in the ice where water has bored a hole straight down to the rivers below. It’s basically a raging river on the glacier that turns into an under-ice waterfall. It was amazing. I tried to take a picture that would convey just how impressive it was, but Betsy stopped me as I started to get close and said simply, “If you slip right here, you will die.” That’s all. It was a pretty effective deterrent. I’m many things, including clumsy, so I decided to forgo the picture in an effort to not die. I did take a picture of this small moulin so maybe you can imagine what looking into the mouth of the big one was like. It was an amazing day and a great end to our backcountry backpacking trip.
We drove back to
Anchorage to meet my brother Jed and his family who recently moved to
Fairbanks, Alaska. We went with them to Seward on
Resurrection Bay where we did a day cruise in the
Kenai Fjords National Park. It was a very dreary day for the most part, which totally ruined a bunch of the pictures I tried to take of some of the awesome stuff we saw. On the way out, we saw a humpback whale, sea lions (not very impressive since we have these in Oregon), puffins (they were very cute and EVERYWHERE and I didn’t get a single decent shot of one!), otters, and Bald Eagles. When we arrived at the glacier we were traveling to see, a HUGE part of the face calved off and plunged into the water, sending a very large wave towards our boat. The park ranger on our boat said that was the largest calving she had seen in her 15 years at the park, and the wave was still 8 feet tall when it rocked our boat that was ¼ mile away from the fall. It was quite impressive. Unfortunately, it was raining and windy during that part of the trip, so there are big fuzzy patches in all of my pictures from water on my lens.
While we were in Seward, we wanted to get some good seafood so we asked the owner of the campground we were staying at (who happened to be from Medford) where we should go. He said without hesitation “Thorn’s Bucket of Butt is the bomb-de-diggity-sh*t.” When a local fisherman tells you someone’s fish and chips is the bomb-de-diggity-sh*t, you get it. End of story. And it sure was! In fact, a week later Mario and I were hundreds of miles away on a train back from Denali and we asked the conductor where we could get the best fish and chips around. Once again, without hesitation, we heard “Thorn’s Bucket of Butt in Seward!”
We also participated in some snag fishing for spawning salmon, which was absolutely nothing like I thought it would be. We rented fishing poles and went where the campground owner told us. We didn’t need any bait. We could see the fish in the water right in front of us. Basically, my brother Jed said it best when we said “Catching these fish is like going to a nursing home to pick a fight.” You pretty much cast right onto the fish you wanted to catch and reeled your line right into it. Crystal caught her fish on its back fin. None of them were good enough to eat since they were spawning, but it was a very interesting morning at least!
We camped for most of our two weeks in Alaska, which some people might think would be hard with an infant. It might be with some infants, but there is nowhere Josh would rather be than outside playing in the dirt. We bought a full rain suit for him before we went, so even when it was raining we’d just put his suit on him and let him mess around in the mud. He was absolutely filthy for two weeks, but never happier! He didn’t want to eat or sleep, just throw rocks and play in the dirt. Even when we were backpacking for three days in Wrangell, he was perfectly happy to ride around in the backpack all day and throw rocks all night.
From Seward we headed north to Denali National Park. There are very few private vehicles allowed in the park – the great majority of people take a bus from the entrance to a visitor’s center near Mt. McKinley (also called Denali, the highest peak in North America). We reserved a spot on the first bus, which necessitated getting up at 5am, but we were more than rewarded with a crystal-clear morning. Our bus driver said it was one of the best days he had ever seen in the park. We saw lots of bears, Dall sheep, caribou, moose, wolves, eagles, a coyote, and probably the coolest mountain I have ever seen. It’s a good thing we got up so early, because by the time we were leaving the visitor’s center at 11am, Denali was already starting to be covered with clouds. It was a very fun day.
We spent our last few days exploring Anchorage and headed home to Utah.
We left Salt Lake and arrived in Boston exactly 46 hours later. We’re so happy to be back, and we’re so grateful Tyler and Suzie let us live in their basement all summer! We have lots of plans for our last year in Boston and hopefully I’ll be better about blogging about them!
Josh is doing great. He’s cutting his 4th tooth, which has made for a few very fussy days, and is very close to walking. Mario started classes last week and is working hard on lining up a job for when he graduates in May.
Our next New England adventure was to Newport, Rhode Island. Newport was the summer location of choice for the summer mansions of Gilded Age millionaires, such as the Vanderbilts and Astors. The mansions are still there and many are open to the public. We visited The Breakers, the Vanderbilt “summer cottage.” It’s a 70 room Italian Renaissance-style palazzo inspired by 16th century palaces (yes, I got that from a website - I don't know anything about architecture and wouldn't know a palazzo if one hit me on the head). Yeah, sounds exactly like a “summer cottage” to me! Photography isn’t allowed in the mansion . . I mean cottage . . . so it’s hard to describe what it’s like. There was a whole lot of marble, wallpaper gilded with platinum, and an entire room just for playing cards. There were secret passages everywhere so the servants could do their jobs and not ever be seen. I know I hate it when I can see by servants serving me, don't you? Actually, only the women were never to be seen. It was perfectly acceptable to see the male servants. It was an interesting look at ridiculous opulence, and a fun way to spend the morning! We explored Newport’s waterfront, had some decent seafood, and stopped by Brown University in Providence, RI on our way back to Boston.
The Harvard Law Couples Association took all of us married Harvard Law students and families to the Franklin Park Zoo. It was Joshua’s third zoo experience, and he had a great time. The Couples Association handed out little adventure hats to all the kids and it’s still one of his favorite toys even now a few weeks later!
Josh is 14 months now and officially done with footy pajamas (his choice, not mine), as well as bottles and pacifiers (that picture on the right was one of his last nights with his binky) – here’s him in his new big boy PJs. He looks so ridiculously OLD!!
